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MTB boost question

edited September 3 in Main
So, I think I've got a line on a new full sus frame. However, it's got boost spacing on the rear. I had planned on just taking everything from my current bike over to the new frame, but I'm realizing the boost spacing complicates things.

Seems I have a few options:
1) Move everything over, and use spacers to make the 142 rear wheel fit in the boost frame. This probably would work best at keeping the chain line sorted out, and is cheapest.

2) rebuild my rear wheel with a boost hub, but keep my fork and front wheel at 100 mm. Apparently this alters the chain line a bit though - is that noticeable?

3) f it all and get a new fork and components, and sell the previous bike as a complete build and not just as a frame. I probably lose money on this deal.

Thoughts from the more experienced mtbers?
First #BAAW Badge Recipient

Comments

  • Options
    edited September 3
    Ok, now that I have that out of my system because I am overly sensitive to "new alternative standards" that unnecessarily complicate things (cough road disc brakes cough Specialized short chainstay system)...

    1 is your cheapest option, but I'm skeptical of the idea of adapters taking that load. I haven't heard of any failures, but I also don't know of anybody who is using them. I try to avoid having any small adapter type pieces anywhere on a bike whenever possible, particularly a mountain bike. I'd rather not attach something that's attached to something that's attached to something and hope all those linkages are solid, not worn, and I did them correctly.
    2 yes, it will affect chainline. How much and how noticeable depends on your drivetrain, frame, and existing hub, and how much you'll care if it's not shifting perfectly. I have a "hacked" XTR Di2 shifter to make it work with a SRAM XX1 cassette (wanted the 10-cog), so I know the pain of not-factory-designed shifting. It can be a pain in the ass to get it dialed and any time something doesn't function right, you question your decisions. Another thing to consider with this option is that every wheelset you'll ever need to buy will have to be custom if you have a standard front/boost rear. If you don't taco wheels on the reg like I seem to, maybe this isn't a problem. Or if you have a Lefty or RS-1 fork, then you've already got this dilemma as it is, so that doesn't matter either.
    3 is definitely the "right" way to do it, although it wouldn't be crazy to sell the old bike as separate frameset and wheelset, or frameset + wheels, and just buy new frame, fork, and wheels, keep your drivetrain and brakes (maybe keep enough money to buy a new crank too, if you find the chainline issues are still a problem). In fact, that's what I'd actually recommend. Unless you've got XTR, XX1, Eagle, or Di2 on your bike now, the components aren't gonna really get you much more than just selling the frame, fork, and wheels.
    Granpa Chooksimonsen77
  • Options
    #3 is the obvious choice; everything else is simply a compromise.
    simonsen77idking90
  • Options
    Yeah, writing it out made it clear. I think I'll start by getting a new boost wheelset, and using the rear, then keep my eyes open for a deal on a fork or a motivated buyer for a non-boost wheelset.

    First #BAAW Badge Recipient
  • Options
    You could just buy a new frame, rear wheel, and crank and everything else will work perfectly, and you just will know that replacing wheels will be a pain in the ass (custom and or one at a time). Just don't be an idiot reckless 185 pounder on featherweight equipment and you probably won't have to worry much.
    simonsen77
  • Options
    I've seen your IG; its alloy bars for me!
    idking90
    First #BAAW Badge Recipient
  • Options
    Update: got the frame, and sticking with my current fork since (1) 120mm should be good to try with this frame, and (2) the greens basically match.

    Getting new crank and a decent rear (DT Swiss 350 ish, maybe a Stans rim or similar, depends on what old frame sells for). If fork works, add the matching front in the spring. If I decide to go full on XC and 100 mm, then I'll get a boost fork and front wheel.

    KenElPescadoPelado
    First #BAAW Badge Recipient

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